மாதுங்காவில் ஒரு மாலை பொழுது

நாங்கள் மும்பை வந்து ஒரு வருடத்திற்கும் மேலாகி விட்டது. மகாலக்ஷ்மி, சித்தி விநாயகர், மரின் டிரைவ், ஜுஹு பீச், கேட் வே ஆப் இந்தியா என முக்கிய இடங்களை ஏற்கனவே பார்த்திருக்கிறோம்.

மாதுங்கா பற்றி பல முறை கேள்வி பட்டதுண்டு. சின்ன வயதில் இந்த பெயரை கேள்வி பட்ட போது, "அம்மங்கா" , "அத்தங்கா" கேள்வி பட்டிருக்கிறோம், ஆனால், "அதென்ன மாதுங்கா?", என பல முறை யோசித்திருக்கிறேன்..

சுகவன சித்தப்பா மும்பை வந்த போது, ஒரு நாள் மாலை சந்தரின் மாமாவை மாதுங்காவில் சந்திக்க சென்றிருந்தார். அவரை அழைத்து வர வாஷியிலிருந்து முதல் முறையாக மாதுங்கா சென்றேன் (மும்பை வந்த பிறகு பல முறை கடந்து சென்றிருக்கிறேன் என்பது வேறு விஷயம்). அன்று மாலை, மாதுங்கா ஸ்டேஷன் வரை சந்தரின் மாமா எங்களை கொண்டு விட வந்தார். வரும் வழியில், மாதுங்கா பற்றி நிறைய சொல்லிக்கொண்டே வந்தார்.

மற்றொரு நாள் மத்தியானம், என் ஆபீஸ் மீட்டிங் முடித்து திரும்பி வருகிற போது கிங் சர்க்கிள் (மாதுங்கா) வழியாக வரும் வாய்ப்பு கிடைத்தது. என்னுடன், என் டைரக்டர்கள் ஹரிஹரன் மற்றும் வெங்கடேஷ் இருந்தனர். மாதுங்காவில் உள்ள ஆரிய பவனில் சாப்பிடலாம் என்று முடிவு எடுத்தார்கள். "அட, நம்ம சாப்பாடா" என ஆச்சர்யம் அடைந்தேன்.

இந்த அனுபவங்களை, வைஷாலி மற்றும் விஷ்ணுவிடம் சொன்ன போது அவர்கள் அடைந்த ஆச்சர்யத்துக்கு அளவே இல்லை. எப்போது போகலாம் என திட்டம் போட ஆரம்பித்து விட்டோம்.

ஒரு நாள் மாலை கிளம்பி மாதுங்காவுக்கு லோக்கலில் சென்றோம். காஞ்ஜுர்மார்க் (எங்கள் ஆரம்ப ஸ்டேஷன்). விக்ரோலி, வித்யாவிஹார், காட்கோபர், குர்லா, சையான் என்று 5 ஸ்டேஷன் கடந்த பின்னர் மாதுங்கா வரும். ஸ்டேஷன் விட்டு வெளியில் வந்து வலது பக்கம் திரும்பி மாதுங்கா ஜிம்கானா, வில்லின்கேர் காலேஜ், போட்டர் (Poddar) காலேஜ் மற்றும் ருயா காலேஜ் என பார்த்து கொண்டே மெயின் ரோடு பிடித்தோம். இன்னும் கொஞ்ச நடைக்கு பிறகு கிங் சர்க்கிள் வந்தடைந்தோம்.

கிங் சர்க்கிள் என்பது மிக பெரிய round about. அதற்கு உள்ளேயே மிக பெரிய பூங்கா அமைக்கப்பட்டுள்ளது. 30 நிமிடங்கள் பூங்காவில் பொழுதை போக்கி விட்டு பிறகு வெளியில் வந்தோம்.

கிங் சர்க்கிளில் கிட்டதட்ட 7, 8 பாதைகள் பிரிந்து செல்கிறது. எந்த பாதையில் செல்வது என குழப்பம்.... ஒரு வழியாக அதிக கூட்டம், கடைகள் உள்ள ரோட்டில் செல்லலாம் என முடிவேடுத்து நடந்து சென்றோம்.

அந்த வழியில், பல பூக்கடைகள் தென்பட்டன. இவ்வளவு பூக்கடைகளா என்று வாயை பிளந்து பார்த்து கொண்டிருந்த வேளையில்,அருள்மிகு ஸ்ரீராமஸ்வாமி கோயில் பார்த்து ஆச்சர்யப்பட்டோம். உள்ளே சென்றால், மூல சன்னதி ராமர், சீதை. பிள்ளையார், விஷ்ணு, ஐயப்பன் மற்றும் நவக்கிரஹம் என பல சன்னதிகள்!!! முழுக்க முழுக்க தமிழ் கோயில்.... கோயில் விட்டு வெளியே வந்து 2 நிமிட நடையில் “கிரி ட்ரேடர்ஸ்” கடையைப் பார்த்தோம். அருகிலேயே கோ-ஆப்டெக்ஸ் கண்ணில் பட்டது. நாம் காண்பது கனவா, நனவா என்று உறுதிப்படித்துக் கொள்ள வேண்டிய நிலைக்கு தள்ளப் பட்டோம்.

கிட்டதட்ட 2 மணி நேரம் சுற்றிய பிறகு, ஆரியபவனில் சாப்பிடுவதற்கு சென்றோம். கீரை வடை, மைசூர் மசாலா தோசை, தயிர் வடை, சாதா ரோஸ்ட், தயிர் சாதம், என தென்னிந்திய வகைகளாகவே சாப்பிட்டோம். இந்த ஹோட்டலில், தயிர் சாதத்துக்கு தொட்டுக்க மோர் மிளகாய் கிடைக்கும்!!

ஹோட்டலை விட்டு வெளியே வந்து, அதே ரோட்டிலேயே நடந்து சென்றால், மீண்டும் மாதுங்கா ஸ்டேஷன் வந்தடைந்து விட்டோம்!! ஒரு பெரிய சுற்று (கிட்டதட்ட 3 கிமீ) வந்து விட்டோம் என்று புரிந்தது. அதே வழியில், ஒரு மினி ”கொத்தவால் சாவடி” பார்த்தோம். குறிப்பாக தமிழ் காய்கறிகளும் கிடைக்கிறது. இது ஸ்டேஷனுக்கு மிக அருகாமையில் உள்ளது.

”ஆலில்லா ஊருக்கு இலுப்பை பூ சர்க்கரை” என்ற பழமொழிக்கேற்ப மாதுங்கா எங்களுக்கு மைலாப்பூர்…. என்ன தெப்பகுளம் இல்லை என்ற ஒரு குறையை தவிர்த்து விட்டால் மாதுங்கா மைலாப்பூருக்கு சமமாகி விடும்.

இப்படியாக ஒரு மாலை பொழுது மிக இனிமையாக கழிந்தது.

Value additions on Kasi

Though I have completed the blog on Kasi, I received a mail from Ramamurthy Athimber adding inputs on Kasi, which I found interesting. He has even suggested to incorporate the inputs to make the blog look more complete in all dimensions. I am reproducing his valued inputs below, with my comments in pink.

The Annapurani as depicted in the series (Kasi Yaathirai - 5) (photograph) can be seen only for three days during Deepavali period. The Golden Annapurani and the Silver Sivan are always kept under lock and key and would be available for Darshan for three days, starting from Dhan Thereas Day. During this time Laddu Ther (chariot) is arranged with lots of sweets, vegetables and fruits. All these would be distributed to the devotees on the last day. Some tourist operators organize a tour to Kasi, Gaya and Allahabad during this period.

There is a Nattukkottai Chettiyars' Choultry, in Kedar Ghat area. From this Choultry, three times a day (or may be more) a procession, with provisions, coconuts, fruits, sandal, honey etc., is taken with Nadaswaram and Melam to Vishwanth Temple. This procession is called "Sambho". Any one, who sees the procession, stops, remove his footwear and pray reverence to this procession.

Harischandra Ghat is one of the most important Ghats in Kasi. It is believed that Raja Harischandra was working as an assistant to the chief cremator of the burning/burial ground, nearer to this Ghat. The descendants of the chief are still living in Kasi in a lavish Bungalow. He is called Dom Maharaj (in Hindi, it means the cremator in burning Ghat). All the burning Ghats are under his control and daily he gets his share from all the Ghats.

There is an important Temple in Harischandra Ghat area, known as Sri Kamakoteeswarar temple. It was established by Kanchi Sankara Mutt. A Jeernoddharana Kumbhabishekam was consecrated recently. In the inner round, just behind the Sanctum Santorum there is a mural sculpture of Lord Shiva in a reclining pose similar to the one that is available at Suruttappalli near Andhra and Tami Nadu border.

In and around Kedar Ghat and Harischandra Ghat areas, many Tamilians, especially purohits are residing. There is a Sankara Mutt also here. Vaishali's Thatha and Patti (she is no more) reside at Hanuman Ghat. He was incharge of this Sankara Mutt for atleast 10 yrs. Now he is just attending only functions and has no responsibility because of his age (He is around 87 now!!). We have even attended an aradhanai (Samadhi Day) of His Holiness Sri Chandrasekharendra Saraswati Swamigal at Sankara mutt

One of the important rituals in Kala Bhairavar temple is to get a mild beating from the priest with his stick on our right shoulder. There is a saying in Hindi - Prayag Me Mundan (Tonsuring the head), Kasi Me Dhandam (Cane Beating) aur Gaya Me Pindam. Somehow this has slipped my mind, though I was told the significance.

If Kala Bhairavar is the Kothwal (Inspector of Police), Dandapani is known as Darogha (the Head Constable) appointed by the Lord for the Security of Kasi. Dandapani's temple is just behind the Kala Bhiravar temple and can be reached through the rear entrance of the temple. This I was not aware of and did not visit.

There is one more important temple in Kasi. It is non religious. It is the temple of Mother India, known as Bharath Mata Mandir. On the floor they made a raised Map of India depicting all the important places. I feel every Indian must visit this temple and pay our reverence to our Nation. I feel unfortunate to miss this one because of time.

Special Thanks to Athimber for his valued inputs and for putting lot of efforts.

Kasi Yaathirai - 11

We had our lunch at a hotel opposite to Anandha Bhavan at 1 PM and entered this place at 1.30 PM. As you all are aware that this was the house of Shri Motilal Nehru / Jawahar Lal Nehru, where they lived for many years.

It is a sprawling house as they were the richest people of that time. We could see the study rooms, drawing rooms, bedrooms, dining room, Kitchen , Congress Conference hall (where important decisions of Congress committee taken during freedom struggle), the things used by Motilal, Jawaharlal, Indira.

We were privileged to see the letters (English & Hindi) of Nehru written in the year 1926 to “Indu” (Indira was 9 yrs old at that time). Some were showing affection, some were of highly informative. The reply letters of “Indu” (9 yr Indira) to her father are in English/Hindi/French.

Historic photographs from birth to death of Nehru, and childhood of Indira Gandhi are displayed in Anandha Bhavan. We could see the display of Will & Testament executed by Nehru and subsequent dedication of “Anandha Bhavan” to Government of India in 1971 by Indira Gandhi.

There is a permanent room earmarked for Mahatma Gandhi for his stay whenever he used to visit Allahabad and there is a balcony where Mahatma used to bask in Sun during winters.

We could the see the birth place of Indira Gandhi. It is in the adjoining building named “Swaraj”. In Swaraj building, in the form of a light and sound show, where Jawahar Lal Nehru’s youth, marriage with Kamla, his participation in freedom struggle, his decision to join Non cooperation movement were shown.

There is a memorial raised where Nehru was laid in rest for public / State mourning and his last remains were kept before it was immersed.

Some of the personal highlights of Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru I reproduce for the sake of records.

Born on 14 Nov 1889, obtained his Graduation at the age of 21 years in 1910, got married in 1916 to Kamala at the age of 27. Indira Gandhi was born to them in Nov 1917. Kamala Nehru breathed her last in 1936 after 20 years of married life. Indira Gandhi was barely 19 years old at that time. Nehru departed heavenly abode on 27 May 1964 at the age of 75. On 25 May 1964, he was with Indira Gandhi at Dehradun and on 26 May, he spent his maximum time with lot of children.

Thus our sojourn with Nehru and Anandha Bhavan came at 5 PM. We felt as if we were living with Nehru, talked to him and were part of his family for those 3 ½ hrs. We returned to Varanasi at 7.30 PM and retired for the day after a much satisfied trip….

We returned to Chandigarh on 31 Dec in the evening by 3.30 PM after a memorable trip to Kasi. I must mention here that Vaishali’s cousin Sriram was there with us during our entire visit to all these places and fed me with details, which made me possible to write the blog on Kasi. I must also mention that by writing a series on Kasi, I have relived those wonderful moments…..

I end the series on Kasi. I hope you all have enjoyed it. I was getting positive vibes throughout in the form of encouraging comments, useful tips, uncovered information, which helped me to a great extent. I take happiness that I could make people who could refresh their memories and created desire in some of them (those who have not visited) to visit Kasi. Thank you all………………..

Kasi Yaathirai - 10

A visit to Allahabad was an afterthought. We did not plan for this trip while making plans to visit Kasi. Frankly, I did not have an idea. But after going to Kasi, desire to visit Allahabad was growing for following reasons. Triveni Sangamam being one and Ananda Bhavan (Where Motilal & Jawahar Lal Nehru lived) being the other. Allahabad is also famous where Big B had born and family members like Ramamurthy Athimber, Saroja Athai, Uma & Bala lived... I am not too sure about Satya.

We had arranged a Maruti Omni Van and started for Allahabad at 0630 hrs. We had our breakfast on way and reached Triveni sangamam at 0945 hrs.

TRIVENI SANGAMAM: As you all know the rivers Ganga and Yamuna meet at this place. River Saraswati is considered as “Antar vahini” (coming from earth) also meet at this place.

There is also an interesting dhanam known as “Veni (பின்னல்) Dhanam” exists here. The Veni Dhanam is a donation of pinnal of about 2 inches by a married lady on the belief that the lady wants same husband for 7 janma and whatever good things she is doing that should be passed off to her off springs and generations. We took bath at 10 AM. As explained earlier in Kasi Yaathirai - 2, taking a first dip was difficult because of winter and heavy mist even though it was 10 AM. But this time we were better prepared mentally as we had already had a wonderful experience at Kedar Ghat (Kasi). We must have had bath for nearly 30 min. The differences between Kasi and Triveni Sangamam are that there are no proper Ghats at Sangam and the river at Sangam was flowing at faster pace. The area is also slushy. After having enjoyed the holy dip for the second time in a space of 3 days, we went to Sayana Anjaneyar Temple which is very near on the river bank.

SAYANA ANJANEYAR TEMPLE: This temple is located nearby triveni sangamam. This is the only temple where you will find Anjaneyar in resting/sleeping posture. It is believed that Hanuman while going to pick up Chanjeevani had rested here for a moment. We could see the face of Anjaneyar and Ram / Lakshman on either shoulder in that posture. The remaining portions were entirely covered with garlands and flowers. Since it is at the same level as that of the river, this temple will be submerged when the river is in spate. We were lucky to have darshan of Anjaneyar as we could see His face very clearly. Then we went to Vimana Mandapam..

VIMANA MANDAPAM: This is a temple having three tiers. Managed by Kanchi Mutt. In the First tier 108 Jyothir lingams, all the sakthi peedams and the roll of Kanchi Acharyas are displayed in praharams. Moola Sannadhi is of Kamakshi Amman. The First Shankaracharya was there from 509 BC to 477 BC. Paintings depicting the life of Adi Shankaracharya and portion of Ramayanam are decorating the walls of temple. In the second tier, Moola sannadhi is of Tirupati Balaji. In the third (Top) tier the sannadhi is a magnificent Yoga Sahasra Lingam. The speciality of this Lingam is that on the main Lingam there are 1008 small lingams are engraved. We were mesmerized and stood there for almost 5 minutes… What a beautiful Shivalingam!!!!

VENI MADHAVAR TEMPLE: We could not visit this temple as it was closed.

In the next blog I will take you through, the Famous Anandha Bhavan, an expansive area, where our illustrious first Prime Minister lived……..

Kasi Yaathirai - 9

Saranath, a famous place associated with history of India, where the great emperor Ashoka after adopting to Buddhism had built Stupas between 3 B.C and 11 A.D during his pilgrimage.

Saranath is also a place where Lord Buddha chose to deliver his first discourse after his enlightening at Bodhgaya under the famous Bodhi tree. The renowned Mantra, 'Buddham Sharanam Gachhami', traces its origin to Sarnath. It is believed on the day before his death; Buddha included Sarnath along with Lumbini, Bodh Gaya and Kushinagar as the four places he thought to be revered to his supporters. It makes Sarnath one of the most acclaimed Buddhist places.

Saranath is about 10 – 12 km from Kasi and almost in an opposite direction to Ramnagar palace and fort. It is a place one should not miss whether one is a history buff or not. Lots of Buddha Vihar (Temple), Stupas, monuments is there to see. There is also a vast expanse of ancient ruins at Saranath. The archeological department is still excavating the whole place to unearth many historic things.

There is a museum in Saranath, which is the main attraction apart from Buddha Vihars. This Museum is a huge area landscaped with beautifully maintained grass carpets. The main attraction of the museum is at the entrance itself. One can see a gigantic Ashok Pillar with majestic four lions on top and Horse, bull, elephant and tiger along with Ashok Chakra on its base. This Ashoka Pillar at Saranath is our National emblem of our country. The archeologists available there say, as far as they know, that the polish done on the original emblem is of Zinc powder, molasses and limestone powder. The quality which has been achieved at that time on that stone carving, could not be achieved even with today’s high technology, is their version!!!

There are 5 galleries and 2 halls. Touch screen monitors are available everywhere to know the information pertaining to excavation and other historical facts. In all these halls and galleries display of huge & miniature idols of Buddha in various postures, Shiva, Parvati, Vishnu, Ganesh is kept. The excavations range between 1 BC and 11 AD origin. We could also see huge stone inscriptions.

The Indian Buddhist society called Mahabodhi Society maintains a park around the famous Buddha Vihar. Ashoka has brought a branch of original “Bodhi” tree from Budhgaya and planted it in Saranath and a huge Bodi tree is there now.

Inside this monastery, on the walls one can see impressive paintings depicting the life of Lord Buddha. In the ground, on one side of monastery one can see striking representation of Buddha preaching his “first Five Disciples”. Just beyond this spot a one can see a bell installed in the year 2004. The bell is wonderful and huge.

We spent around 4 hours and we could associate us with the traditions of History. It was a real treat to be in this part of the world where we could also associate with our National emblem.

Thus, we visited all these places in Kasi and in subsequent blogs; I will cover the trip to Allahabad which we undertook during this same period on a day in between…..

Kasi Yaathirai - 8

A fort and a palace at Kasi......

The Ramnagar Fort lies about 12 – 13 km from Varanasi and is situated on the opposite bank of river Ganga. It is the ancestral home of the Maharaja of Banaras. Maharaja Balwant Singh built this fort-palace in the eighteenth century. The fort is built in red sandstone. The Ramnagar fort has a temple and a museum within the grounds and the temple is dedicated to Ved Vyasa, who wrote Mahabharata, the great Indian epic. History says that Ved Vyasa stayed here for a brief period.


Varanasi might be known for lot of Temples, but it had also been ruled by various kings, who left their impressions on the city. The Raja Ghat on the river, for example, was built by one of them. The royal family still resides in this palace and is treated well with some of the important portfolios in temple (Kasi Viswanathar) administration held by them. The present incumbent is Raja Narain Bahadur. The last Raja was Vibhuti Narain Singh (1909 – 2000). A Superfast train named “Vibhuti Express” runs in his name between Allahabad and Howrah via Varanasi.

The Palace has now been converted into a huge museum and one needs at least 2 – 3 hrs of time to visit this place. The Museum closes in the evening at about 5 PM.


The first section of the museum has various vintage cars (they were of Cadillac origin) belonging to the royal family. After this, we were 
led to the impressive collection of palanquins made of Gold, Silver and ivory. Textiles (saree, overcoat & other dress materials) are embroidered in gold and silver zari. It is indeed wonderful to see such magnificence, and one wonders how these things would have been like when the kings were at the height of their glory. When I am writing this blog, I could relate it with Jodha Akbar directed by Ashutosh Gowarikar.



The next section comprises an Armoury which included wide range of metal armoured dress, spears, axes, swords, various types of guns 
(single, double, four barrel) pistols, revolvers. Some of them are of Smith & Wesson make. Daggers are embedded with precious stones in handles…. One sword weighs 5 Kg….. I can understand that why kings were supposed to have strong shoulders. Really a fascinating experience and the way the things are preserved are amazing!!


When we move inside the palace, wide array of beautiful works of art, and gifts from kings of other states is displayed. One notable thing is a carving of a huge tree (ivory) with leaves and one can see small birds sitting on those leaves with a help of magnifying glass!!! 



These were truly worth seeing, considering that with the great advances in science and technology, it is impossible to come across such wonderful handwork. The expansive Durbars depicted with portraits of various kings, with varieties of chandeliers is a delight to watch.


Another important aspect of this museum is an ancient clock which displays not only the year, month, week and day, but also astronomical facts 
about the sun, moon and constellations of stars! The fact that this clock is working till date is amazing and highly appreciable and automatically qualifies to make a visit to the museum worthwhile……


A tunnel-like passage from the fort leads us under the fort to the river Ganga, flowing in full force and on the other side are the high walls of the palace. The view is breathtaking and I can assure you all that it will be a wonderful experience……


We had a worthwhile trip to this palace, the surroundings, its scenic beauty with river on one side and a fort stand tall amidst ruins is beautifully poised in our memories………..